YOUR DETAILS
Where to stay, where to eat, where to shop and other tips. Read More
WELL FED
Experience delectable Japanese-French fusion cuisine at Tetsuya’s Restaurant. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY TETSUYA’S RESTAURANT
WHERE TO STAY
Choose a partner hotel and earn Aeroplan Miles for your stay. Here are three of our favourites in Sydney:
SHANGRI-LA SYDNEY Located in the historic Rocks district, the 563-room Shangri-La offers stunning views across Sydney Harbour. The New York-inspired Blu Bar on 36 mixes top cocktails — or learn to make your own in a two-hour class. 176 Cumberland Street; (61 2) 9250-6000.
THE WESTIN SYDNEY The stylish Westin has one of the most exclusive addresses in Sydney: No.1 Martin Place, in the heart of the city. Blast jet lag with an in-room spa treatment, such as a one-hour shiatsu massage. No.1 Martin Place; (61 2) 8223-1111.
INTERCONTINENTAL SYDNEY With 509 rooms in a sleekly modernized 19th-century building, the InterContinental hotel overlooks the Sydney Opera House and is minutes from the lively business district.
117 Macquarie Street; (61 2) 9253-9000.
On my first day in Australia’s largest city, a saltwater breeze neutralizes my jet lag as I overlook legendary Bondi Beach. On the massive golden crescent below, sun-soaked locals with wavy tresses carry surfboards, while pale-by-comparison tourists gather for a lesson in how to hang loose. Reaching the sand, I slip off my sandals to feel the hot grains between my toes. Less than a day in Sydney and I’m already wondering why anyone lives anywhere else.
More than 30 white-sand strands line Sydney’s coast, and with an average daytime temperature ranging from “Should I pop on a cardy?” to downright stinking hot, it’s almost always beach season. Pilgrimages to the sea are a cornerstone of daily life for Aussies, who are said to have sand in their souls, along with all the usual nooks and crannies.
During a visit to the city’s Art Gallery of New South Wales, I discover dozens of stunning works where beach plays muse. On the way out, I purchase a copy of Charles Meere’s famous 1940 painting “Australian Beach Pattern.” The art-deco tableau of seaside life will serve well in my apartment as an homage to the reality of a citified utopia.
BAYWATCH
There’s more to Sydney than sand and surf, and I soon discover the undeniable star of the city: Sydney Harbour. Located in the central business district (the CBD, to locals), these 240 km of shoreline are home to Aussie icons Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House. From the hub at Circular Quay, it’s easy and inexpensive to hop on a ferry and explore the surroundings, like Taronga Zoo and Manly, a destination suburb with popular pubs, beaches and bicycle tours. But feeling landlubberish, I head instead for the Opera Bar’s waterfront beer garden with hopes of finding a good people-watching pozzie. (That’s “position” in Aussie slang, which it’s a good idea for a visitor to brush up on. Australians have a penchant for abbreviating words with suffixes like -o and -ie, and the colloquialisms can leave the uninitiated tongue-tied.) It’s easily 30˚C and the place is chockablock with people, the sort of conditions where I’d be quick to forgive a bout of city-dweller’s irritability. But glancing around, it’s obvious I’m not the only one who’s caught the Sydney buzz — everyone looks happy.
A stroll through the nearby Royal Botanical Gardens allows a glimpse of domestic flora and fauna. (Look up — some trees are filled with snoozing bats.) And nestled at the foot of the bridge is the Rocks, the historical neighbourhood where Sydney began more than two centuries ago. The streets are lined with quaint heritage buildings transformed into restaurants and cafés. At the Australian Hotel, a bright yellow flatiron building, patrons can taste down-under nosh like kangaroo, emu and crocodile pizza. The Sydney Visitor Centre is located here, and every Friday afternoon, the Rocks Discovery Museum hosts free arts and culture Talks on the Rocks. The whole ’hood is like an interactive outdoor museum.
SIMPLE PLEASURES AND HIDDEN TREASURES
Even away from the water, the city is picturesque. Wandering through Hyde Park, Sydney’s central green space, I feel like Alice in Wonderland. An oversized chessboard with three-foot-tall playing pieces has a group of gentlemen fixed in concentration. The wide main pathway, called the Avenue of Figs, is covered in smooth stone tiles, and soaring fig trees line the lane, creating a giant airy tunnel of intertwined branches. At the bottom of the walkway is a clearing where an extravagant fountain by French sculptor François-Léon Sicard depicts a bronze Apollo surrounded by mythical figures.
I continue beyond the park, excited for an afternoon of good old-fashioned retail therapy. First I hit the Queen Victoria Building — to check out the shops, but mostly for the building itself. The grand Romanesque arcade was constructed in 1898 and has housed a number of tenants over the decades, from the city library to clairvoyants. Today, slick modern escalators and posh boutiques contrast with beautifully restored stained glass windows, balustrades and intricate tiled floors. Feeling refreshed by the QVB’s air-conditioned environs, I head out into the street and off to market.
Outdoor markets across the city — Balmain, Bondi and Glebe, to name a few — make consumerism a walk in the park. Paddington Market (held every Saturday, rain or shine) is located in the Oxford Street shopping district and has more than 200 stalls of local artists, designers and craft makers. That’s where I meet Justine Davis, an independent fashion designer with an eponymous line of cocktail dresses, including one she designed for eccentric pop star Lady Gaga during her 2010 Australian tour. Today, Davis is buying, not selling, though she has a showroom in nearby Surry Hills, another top shopping ’hood.
“Aussie fashion is cool because we’re somewhat isolated from the rest of the world, so we have a different take on design,” she tells me. “It’s about a love of comfort that suits our lifestyle, fused with a strong creative edge.
“I love living in Sydney,” she says. “You can relax by the beach, shop in fantastic boutiques and then go out for dinner at a wonderful restaurant, all within a 15-minute drive.” I still have a few days left to explore Sydney, but already I’m certain about one thing: this Antipodean paradise is a city I will happily escape to again.
YOUR DETAILS
WHERE TO EAT
TETSUYA’S RESTAURANT Foodies splash out to experience the exquisite menu at this upscale Japanese-French fusion restaurant, including its signature confit of Petuna ocean trout with kombu and fennel. Bookings are essential. 529 Kent Street; (61 2) 9267-2900.
MOJO’S CAFÉ AND TAPAS BAR A popular spot overlooking Bondi Beach, packed with jovial locals every night of the week. Scrumptious food is perfect for sharing. Reservations are recommended. 32 Campbell Parade; (61 2) 9130-1322.
FIFI FOVEAUX Ruby-coloured walls and a funky chandelier make this Surry Hills café an inspiring launch pad for a day of shopping. The coconut bread and coffee are divine. 428 Crown Street; (61 2) 9380-6881.
WHERE TO SHOP
PADDINGTON Fashionistas flock to this neighbourhood filled with independent boutiques. Walk along Oxford Street and Glenmore Road for the best finds, and hit the market on Saturday. 395 Oxford Street; (61 2) 9331-2923.
SURRY HILLS This trendy ’hood is another hotbed of homegrown designers. Visit busy Crown Street for clothes and accessories. The Surry Hills Market is held at Shannon Reserve on the first Saturday of every month.
BONDI Shop here for top beachware labels. Westfield Bondi Junction is a popular all-in-one shopping centre, and Bondi Markets are held every Sunday. Campbell Parade; (61 2) 9315-8988.
WHERE TO DRINK AND PARTY
OPERA BAR With spectacular sunset views of Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House, this waterside beer garden is the perfect place to begin a night on the town. Sydney Opera House, lower concourse level; (61 2) 9247-1666.
MARTINI CLUB Sydney’s grooviest nightlife act — an infectiously funky ensemble of horns, percussion, vocals and a DJ — will “make you move like a Molotov cocktail tossed onto the dance floor.” Track down one of their regular gigs around town.
